There are hundreds of bars, restaurants, and cafes in Toledo, each one catering to a different group - traditional tapas are gathering places for men, then there are the wi-fi cafes, the outdoor cafes, and the tourist traps that usually surround the plaza majors.
Off on backstreet is Kumera, an outdoor cafe catering to the locals; it's the kind of bar where if you come often enough, everyone knows your name. We arrived at nine thirty and even then we were only the third table to be served. The sun was still above the horizon and a thick humidity hung in the air.
Within 15 minutes, every table was filled, other patrons entered and went down stairs where there was more seating.
Our fare was the price fixed plate, which this time consisted of Mediterranean salad with fish, and a thin piece of fresh fish with calamari, topped off with a desert of two scoops of ice cream.
People watching is the past-time of most Spaniards at outdoor cafes, we were no exception.
Our waiter worked hard.
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